"Snaking up Highway 96 on a snowy Franklin evening, I was relieved when the glow of the greenhouses heralded my arrival at January, the new restaurant opening Wednesday, January 24 at 2200 Osage Loop. Chef Andrew Klamar—formerly of McCrady’s and the Hermitage Hotel’s Capitol Grille—and chef Nate Leonard lean on the resort’s seasonal bounty and international techniques to shape a menu organized into small, medium, and large plates: highlights include hiramasa crudo; beet escabeche with pickled dates and goat feta; Parker House rolls served with whipped butter blended with honey pulled from the farm’s apiary; a two-week dry-aged duck presented as breast and confit with blueberry preserves and sunchoke; arctic char; and a coppa steak (pork shoulder) brined two weeks and slow-cooked 24 hours. The dining room balances far-reaching glass views of the farmland with an opposite open kitchen where staff plate on a central marble table beneath high ceilings, gray paneling, white-washed wood, botanical illustrations by Richard Bowers, and potted plants. Desserts nod to Southern classics—chess pie spritzed tableside with “walnut essence” and an artful hummingbird cake—while cocktails and nonalcoholic drinks incorporate farm produce (the Apiary uses gin, lemon, lavender simple, honey, and bee pollen; the Galloper mixes dark rum, spiced pear, apple, and Southall and orange bitters; the Orchard pairs the farm’s apples with ginger beer and lemon), and a tightly curated wine list rounds out offerings. January will be open for dinner Wednesday through Sunday from 5 to 10 p.m.; reservations are available via OpenTable." - Jackie Gutierrez-Jones