"Michael Nagrant calls Bayan Ko a “tiny revolution, a fusion of Cuban and Filipino culture that reflects the heritage of its owners.” The Cubano — packed with “silky” pork shoulder, salty ham, Swiss cheese, mustard, and pickles – “takes [him] to church” while tiny skewers of “luscious” pork in cola glaze are “finger-lickin’.” Adobo chicken wings “add to our city’s pollo plunder” but Lug Lug noodles, loaded with uni, scallop, coddled egg yolk, and chicharron, “turn into a giant sogfest” as the “pork skin loses its integrity quickly and is no match for the chewy noodles.” An “unreal” halo-halo caps off the meal with ube that’s “creamier than a freshly rolled cow’s udder” and flan cubes that “weep caramel like a miraculous Virgin Mary statue.” [Michael Nagrant]" - Jeffy Mai
