
4

"At first glance I thought it was a typical neighborhood butcher and deli — a grocery deli case of grass-fed beef, poultry, sausages made on the premises, the occasional hunk of game, coolers of prepared pastas, soups, salads and tamales made by the chef’s mother, and a sliced-to-order deli counter — but the sandwich counter is where chef Mario Llamas and his staff, with casual precision, turn out some of Orange County’s best sandwiches. I noticed the hulking wood-burning grill behind the deli counter, a direct link to Llamas’s 20 years drawn to the flame and his time as executive chef at Corazón de Alcachofa in Guadalajara, and those Argentine influences show up most directly in the choripán: an in-house Argentine-style chorizo whose casing snaps on first bite, served with fresh chimichurri on an artisan roll that soaks up the olive oil, parsley, and garlic. The most popular sandwich is his smoked pastrami, a recipe he refined over 15 years and smokes then steam-finishes; what really sets it apart is the use of Mishima Reserve wagyu, sliced to order and served with coleslaw, mustard, pickles, and rye from Bread Artisan Bakery. I also saw a small licensed charcuterie room with a window to watch slow-aging, and a butcher case heavy on kabobs, dry-aged rib steaks and chops, all underscoring that this is as much a market as a sandwich shop. Other standouts include a smashburger beloved by his daughter and a cheesy breakfast burrito with housemade chorizo (garlic and smoked paprika) wrapped in Diana’s tortillas; the shop’s utilitarian, non-fussy vibe, a couple of outside cafe tables on Bristol Street, and a clientele ranging from students to tech executives make it feel like a real neighborhood spot that’s quietly becoming a local legend." - Jenn Tanaka