Napa’s Mexico City-Style Taqueria Mothers Tacos Is Opening in Ventura | Eater LA
"Opening April 22, a Napa-based taqueria is debuting an outpost in Ventura that brings Mexico City–style tacos and churros inspired by Churrería El Moro; this is the second location and the first outside Napa. The concept was launched in 2023 by Charles Whittaker, Benedict "Ben" Koenig, and Ali Koenig and quickly gained a cult following for its build-your-own micheladas, wood-fired meats, and some of the region’s best al pastor, shaved off the trompo into awaiting tortillas. The name takes inspiration from the doñas of Mexico City; as Koenig says, "It’s a younger, hipper, kind of badass, edgy mother that we want to try to represent," and "It’s those mothers that we saw in Mexico City working with kids and trying to make a living." Oxnard-born chef Gabe Garcia (Tierra Sur, Highly Likely) helms the Ventura kitchen and expands the Napa offerings: Koenig recommends starting with entradas like chicharron or elote and mariscos such as aguachile de pulpo or grilled octopus; oysters are offered as a crudo, grilled, or in shots with tequila and hot sauce. Koenig encourages family-style dining—citing Majordomo, David Chang’s Arts District restaurant—as a format he wants to replicate. Tacos lean into Mexico City roots with al pastor and carne asada cooked over mesquite; tender suadero topped with cilantro and onion; an Okinawan sweet potato taco with quinoa, caramelized onions, and radish; and a hongo taco with sautéed mushrooms, caramelized onions, cheese, onion, and cilantro. Tacos are available individually or as a three-taco plate with rice and beans. Family-style dishes (exclusive to Ventura) serve three to four and include slow-roasted pork belly "lechon," a mesquite-grilled tomahawk (a Garcia signature), duck carnitas, pescado asado, and lamb shank barbacoa; each comes with rice, beans, tortillas, salsas, and taco garnishes. Platos clásicos for one include carne asada, chicken mole, fish tacos, lamb ribs, and calabacitas. Dessert features freshly fried churros dusted in plain or cinnamon sugar or served as a sundae with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce; pairings include Mexican hot chocolate, French press coffee, or a cafe de olla martini. The lunch menu mirrors dinner minus the family-style meals. The Ventura dining room was designed by Mexico City firm Gospel Studio with natural materials, wood furniture, poured concrete tabletops, a minimalist Roma Norte–like interior, plants, a bright red backsplash, gray and light wood furnishings, and seating that includes a long bar, shared central table, and four-tops; as Koenig says, "Our restaurant should feel very different from what I think most Mexican restaurants, or what people stateside are accustomed to." Despite construction delays, Koenig adds, "I’m really optimistic,"' Koenig says. Hours will be Tuesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., with late-night tacos and cocktails Thursday through Saturday." - Rebecca Roland
