"Less is usually more when it comes to expensive beef, and there aren’t many entries on this list that add more to their mains beyond salt, pepper, and heat. But Chinh Hoang’s family marinade is worth making exceptions for, infusing each beautifully tender cut with a complex mix of umami and the slightest hint of sweetness often found in Vietnamese cooking. The rest of the compact menu embodies the best aspects of fusion cuisine: steak bites and jasmine rice are a beautiful marriage of comfort foods, and the mashed potatoes with a ramekin of sun-hot chile oil is easily worth a trip to the suburbs." - Ben Coleman