"Before you head into this very popular fish house for a meal, do what the regulars do and eyeball the catch of the day at the adjacent fish market that’s owned by the restaurant. Owner Fabien Rugi’s nautically themed decor of ropes, fishnets, and buoys is amusingly tongue-in-cheek, but the cooking here is seriously good, including a regularly changing roster of dishes like fresh sea urchins in season, razor clams from Sète with fresh cilantro and lemon, grilled rouget (red mullet), and fried baby squid. Finish up with a slice of fiadone, Corsican cheesecake. Reservations are essential." - Alexander Lobrano