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"In the one-room Mole Poblano I watch mole poblano — the traditional dish of Puebla, according to co-owner Ynes Sandoval — ladled generously over chicken legs and thighs; it’s peppery, chocolatey and somehow sour, and the chicken, tortillas and a little mound of rice temper the sauce perfectly. Sandoval also bundles dark mole inside tamales and offers it with eggs and tortillas at breakfast, and she uses ingredients like plantains, garlic, raisins and even galletas (cookies) as thickening agents in her complex mole." - Angela Gervasi