"Covington’s loss was Bay St. Louis’s gain when chef Jeffrey Hansell and his wife Amy left the Northshore to open the beguiling Thorny Oyster in the Pearl Hotel steps from the beach. Hansell’s attention to detail and gorgeous composition come across in an array of fresh Gulf seafood, from grilled and raw oysters to a bouillabaisse and crab-stuffed whole fish of the day. Wonderful craft cocktails, naturally." - Beth D'Addono