"On the outskirts of the Park Royal industrial estate at Acton Business Centre, a remarkable flowering of Iraqi and Lebanese restaurants has developed around what would now be called “dark kitchens,” giving a public interface to traditional catering businesses. Al Enam is the largest and most impressive of these restaurants. Lamb shawarma is exceptional here, chopped fine and stuffed in sub rolls with chips, it has the pleasing soft, yielding texture of a good Philly Cheesesteak. Fish cooking is beyond the capability of most grill houses, with butterflied seabass cooked over flames hotter than hell, turning the skin into a burnt shell to scoop perfectly cooked flesh from. Still, the best thing may just be the lentil soup, given gratis to every table, served with bread, lemon and pickles." - Jonathan Nunn