"Though the Eater 38 rarely includes restaurants north of Boulder, this little jewel box of contemporary cuisine in Lyons warrants an exception. The menu, which changes near-daily, traverses Europe through dishes like chorizo-stuffed calamari in its ink with potato puree and salsa verde; paglia e fieno pasta with rabbit ragu, taleggio, and radicchio; and Wagyu beef en croute in sauce au poivre verte. Chef Theo Adley takes these influences and makes them all his own. The considerate floor staff, meanwhile, does a bang-up job of walking guests through the wine list, which emphasizes small, sustainable producers." - Ruth Tobias