

6

"Recently refurbished and renamed, this Chelsea restaurant pairs opulent surroundings with a surprisingly relaxed, almost pub-like warmth. The menu ranges from chateaubriand and native lobster to inventive plates — squid-ink rice topped with grilled langoustine and scallop in a champagne sauce, braised hispi cabbage described as a bold, rural romp, and an aged beef fillet with smoked bone marrow and creamed spinach that exemplifies culinary largesse. Puddings are standouts: poached rhubarb with crisp caramelised puff pastry and rhubarb sorbet, and a melting hot chocolate fondant lifted by a decadent salted caramel goo. Service is jolly, prompt and unobtrusive and chef Iain Smith’s cooking earns high praise. Prices can be eye‑watering, but for largely faultless food in grown-up, comfortable luxury the experience often feels like good value — and dinner here can even be a good laugh." - George Reynolds