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"I stopped by the quietly opened Pig in a Pickle barbecue stand in Public Market Emeryville and found sultry smoked meats driven by chef-owner Damon Stainbrook’s fine-dining background (stints at Lark Creek Inn, One Market, and as a former sous chef at the French Laundry). Stainbrook says he enjoys live-fire cooking and smokes everything onsite with California white oak, hitting a range of regional styles: brisket rubbed and smoked 18 hours in the Central Texas vein; hot links based on Cajun andouille; a dry-rubbed, smoked, and pulled pork shoulder dressed in a vinegar-based sauce he calls “very North Carolina”; smoked chicken influenced by Alabama with a white sauce; and dry-rubbed baby back ribs that hint of Memphis. Not all meats are available at the Emeryville kiosk yet—right now you’ll see brisket, pulled pork, and hot links—and ordering is by the pound with optional sides including white cheddar mac ’n’ cheese, braised collards with ham hocks, potato salad, and coleslaw. Through the weekend the stand is open for lunch only (11:30 a.m.–2 p.m.) with plans to expand hours starting Nov. 12 (11 a.m.–8 or 9 p.m.); Stainbrook calls it an “until sell out” place with the goal of leaving no meat left." - Janelle Bitker