"Cristina Ruiz grew up in San Sebastián, eating her baker grandfather’s apple cake, while elsewhere in the city, Juan Mari Arzak and Pedro Subijana were pioneering the New Basque Cuisine. Now, she owns Tokova, which is part of the night life of Tooting’s historic Broadway Market (by day, it’s still grocers, fishmongers, butchers, and a pet shop). Ruiz’s restaurant is all about good-humoured food, ranging from the playfully absurd – skewers of chorizo suspended over a flaming ceramic pig – to the straightforwardly delicious, a winning trifecta of duck egg, blood sausage, and paprika migas (breadcrumbs). Celeriac curled in a manchego and Idiazábal sauce would rival any good cauliflower cheese. And there’s just a sprinkling of the old New with a dusting of dehydrated olives." - Hester van Hensbergen