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"I understand why 'everyone does their stint at Pietro’s' — it's a local rite of passage: the family restaurant, started by the Murdacas and opened in Lodi in 1985, serves classic Italian fare with local wines, pasta, and hearty southern Italian dishes. A lovely demonstration garden supplies herbs and vegetables for the dining room; in winter I start with tender housemade meatballs in chunky tomato sauce and stay cozy with tagliatelle in pork sausage, veal, and porcini bolognese, and I never miss dessert — from butterscotch budino to the impossibly light salted caramel-mocha gelato pie." - Laura Smith Borrman