Selfridges London’s Brasserie of Light Restaurant Impresses Food Critic | Eater London

"A Smithfield restaurant that feels of-the-moment without losing substance: the kitchen bakes its own bread, cultures butter, leans on fermentation and gives equal billing to meat and vegetable dishes. Humble ingredients are treated with care — mackerel arrives sparklingly fresh with blistered skin, beetroot is partnered with an intense black-garlic purée that begs to be licked off the plate, an oxtail-and-potato hot-pot is braised to soulful perfection and a pumpkin-and-Jerusalem-artichoke lasagne elevates autumnal produce to luxurious heights. Desserts, from a croissant bread-and-butter pudding to an Earl-Grey–scented custard tart with lemon sorbet, maintain the same accomplished balance of technique and flavour, all at good value." - George Reynolds