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"For decades the chef Genet Agonafer has run a remarkable little spot in Little Ethiopia; her food showcases the endless variety of simple ingredients transformed by hours of cooking and gentle blending of spices. The reviewer recalls first trying Agonafer’s dishes at a food event years ago and notes that the chef nearly closed during the COVID‑19 pandemic but made a comeback with limited takeout and has since reopened the dining room on weekends as business steadied. Many dishes travel well: buttery, spicy chicken tibs and red‑tinted dorowot are enjoyed with strips of plush injera. — Matthew Kang, lead editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest" - Eater Staff