"Per its name, Ezo casts a slightly wider net than near neighbour Hasu, with both shoyu and tonkotsu ramens and nutty, tousled soba to go with thicker, springier udon. It does a few nifty things elsewhere, offering aburi on fish fatty enough to take the torching, as well as a miso black cod that doesn’t require diners to remortage their house." - James Hansen