"Julian Denis’s bigger space for the popular Mao Chow has lost none of the technicolour frenzy of the original. An early example of its expansion from the Sichuan repertoire to more regional dishes is a rendition of Macau baked pork chop rice, most expertly served in London at Cafe TPT in Chinatown, and here incorporating Puerto Rican coconut rice; melted vegan cheese; and fried oyster mushrooms acting as “chops.” This and more like sizzling aubergine; numbing twice-fried artichokes; and a vegan blood sausage prove that things are on the up." - Angela Hui, Jonathan Nunn, James Hansen