
1
"A long-running Spanish institution that thrives on its rambunctious atmosphere as much as its food: the starkly lit room is dominated by a vast wooden horseshoe bar, tiny tables force Tetris-like plate arrangements, and an in-house guitarist adds to the theatrical, people-watching energy. Classic dishes hit the mark — bronzed, hot tuna croquettes with a savory snap, patatas bravas with a creeping mellow heat, and deep-fried chorizo that pairs effortlessly with a warm Rioja — while specials such as pork belly marry frazzled crunch and succulent flesh and a rustic lentil stew delivers patient, fragrant depth. The restaurant’s enduring appeal comes from the intoxicating mix of booze, agile service, prime people-watching and fond nostalgia, keeping the place spry, unique and very much alive after decades." - George Reynolds