New Fu Run

New Fu Run Is a Flushing Classic — Reborn in Great Neck | Eater NY

"Across the Queens border in downtown Great Neck, we visited New Fu Run, opened in 2017 by owner Tina Zhang at 50 Middle Neck Road near Grace Street; unlike the plainer original, the deep, wide dining room has elaborate chandeliers, gray banquettes, mahogany trim and beams, Chinese ink drawings of stampeding horses and undulant goldfish, and a bar serving wine and beer. The food impressed: scallion pancakes ($11) arrived as big, puffy brown cushions almost floating off the plate; the tiger salad ($11) was a haystack of fresh herbs with slivers of green chiles; and the country-style green bean sheet jelly ($15) was a pinwheel of julienned vegetables atop greenish translucent mung-bean pappardelle with a thick, nutty, tahini-like dressing. We also loved a bowl of buttery corn and pine nuts, snow peas tossed with a garlicky sausage that tasted like kielbasa, and thick-skinned, chewy pork-and-cabbage dumplings. The best thing we ate was a sweet-and-sour flounder with a crisp breading soaked in sugar and rice-wine vinegar — more tart and less sweet than the Cantonese version. The lamb chops with cumin (now $38, previously listed as Muslim lamb chops at $26) were plentiful and still fragrant from fried garlic and cumin seeds, though on our visit the ribs were a bit dry and the bright red color was gone; I wouldn’t hesitate to order them again, but maybe not on a Sunday late in the evening when downtown Great Neck felt like a ghost town." - Robert Sietsema