"After closing Pacifico, chefs Miguel Bahena and Carolina Verdugo evolved their kitchen from a purely Baja California approach to a menu based generally on northeastern Mexico. Plus, their cozy, new dining room feels like home. Ceviches with Persian cucumber and cherry tomatoes, tiraditos marinated in algaes and chile morita, and local oysters flavored by fire-roasted chiles satisfy the Ensenadan fundamentals. Meanwhile dry fideos (noodles) are topped with hearty beef head stew, and seasonal grilled vegetables evoke scenes of families gathered around smoky backyard grills in Chihuahua and Sonora — and, of course, Baja California. [$$]" - Bill Esparza