Jay Rayner: Black Axe Mangal “Rattles Eyeballs” A La St John Restaurant | Eater London

"The new restaurant from a Michelin‑level chef at a conservative hotel that produces food ranging from very good to merely fine; service is quick and solicitous but the cooking doesn’t always land consistently. Starters such as breaded oysters with cabbage and oyster‑salad cream are singled out as spot‑on, while a lobster-and-pea tart is refreshing though a touch bland and a cuttlefish black pudding divides opinion. Among mains, battered turbot is praised for a sweet, gelatinous tug that suits the treatment, and a lustrous, golden grilled Dover sole is described as a thing of beauty, though accompanying plump, sweet clams feel oddly unincorporated and mismatched with a clotted‑cream sauce. Overall, the kitchen largely succeeds in marrying finesse with reassurance, offering food that feels suitably safe for conservative surroundings." - George Reynolds