"The cold dishes that make up a Shanghai appetizing buffet often contain a selection of mushroom dishes, including both cloud ears and black mushrooms. Both are tossed with spongy pieces of gluten in a thick, sweet soy sauce at this Flushing Shanghai teahouse in the shadow of the Long Island Railroad. The the soup dumplings and classic noodle dishes are front and center here, but don’t let them distract you from the wonderful cold apps that are perfect in the summer." - Robert Sietsema