"You can depend on Leo’s having killer mozzarella, because it’s one of the city’s old-fashioned latticini, which make fresh Italian cheeses. For decades it was presided over by Nancy DeBenedettis, known as Mama, who died in 2009. Her magnificent hero features soft salami, a ham known as prosciuttini, pickled red peppers, and mozzarella (mushrooms optional), and she sprinkles on plenty of black pepper." - Robert Sietsema
