Ma•dé

Crop Tops, Stellar Shrimp Toast, and $25 Wines by the Glass at Ma-Dé | Eater NY

"Inside the Indonesian-influenced Nolita spot from the husband-and-wife duo (who previously opened Wayan in Nolita in 2019 and a sibling two doors down this spring), I found a space that contrasts greenery, concrete, and marble, filled with the din of conversation and a warm soundtrack with just enough reggae to feel vaguely like a vacation. Attentive staff buzz around, pouring water from fish-shaped pitchers while diners in straw hats, crop tops, and sundresses trade tips — a blonde even leans in to whisper, "get the lobster dumplings." The tight wine list leans heavily on natural wines (glasses average $24.50), and the pet nat blanc on the night was crisp and funky; cocktails nod to Asian flavors like lychee, makrut lime, and galangal, though the bar also turns out a mean Gibson. The menu, organized into categories like land and sea with intentionally shorthand descriptions, emphasizes seasonality: delicate dumplings filled with earthy fava beans in a mildly sweet, nutty sauce; crisp soft-shell crab riffing on a wedge salad; and a showstopping shrimp toast — two milk-bread batons garnished with precisely minced chive perched atop an acidic, citrusy foam. Desserts are simple but assertive, such as a tart mango custard complemented by basil ice cream and a crumble. Solo diners should be warned that seating is awkward — there are only four proper bar seats (capping each end) and a few backless slim stools at tiny ledge-like tables facing the wall — though staff try to make solo guests comfortable with chatty conversation and thoughtfully timed courses; prices add up (one bill with three dishes, dessert, a cocktail, and a wine totaled $174 with tip)." - Missy Frederick