"Pitmaster Kevin Koch taught himself how to make the Kansas City-style barbecue of his childhood, first opening Lawless BBQ as a kind of ghost kitchen before opening a brick-and-mortar. There, diners can find his Kansas City-style barbecue sauces atop tender ribs, pork belly burnt ends, or as optional dips for brisket that’s smoked for 13 hours. Fans of saucier, sweeter barbecue without especially assertive smoke flavor will be happily licking their fingers here." - Ron Scott