Three More Restaurants That Nearly Made the National 38 | Eater

"Operated by longtime Portland chef Krista Kern Desjarlais, this tiny converted house functions as a creative workshop centered on Montreal-style bagels baked in a wood-fired oven; the crusty, satisfyingly dense bagels come in classic and adventurous varieties (plain, poppy, sesame, everything, plus za'atar, kombu, and maple sugar). Sandwiches such as the Smoked Salmon Plus (scallion cream cheese, trout roe, pickled radish) and the Just Right Right Now (sherry-soaked raisins, apple confit, and cream cheese spiked with ras el hanout) highlight bright, warming flavors, while rotating projects—orange-blossom brioche, Roman-rectangle pizza sold by weight, smoked brisket specials, and green walnut gelato—demonstrate a restless, creative spirit; the chef sometimes closes for summer breaks but reliably draws loyal locals and visitors when she reopens." - Bill Addison