"When this Bellevue sushi restaurant helmed by Shiro Kashiba protege Jun Takai was named a James Beard Award semifinalist earlier this year, the writer felt professionally obligated to spend about $200 of their dining budget on high-end omakase. The roughly 20-or-so courses of nigiri did not not disappoint — it’s hard to pick just one highlight, but one toro (fatty tuna) piece was rich but also aged to give it a tighter texture so it doesn’t quite melt in your mouth." - Harry Cheadle