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"In a different London, Malay Fellas would be a roti John stand. The other cooking is good to great, but the roti John is the crown jewel. The etymology and origin of roti John as with any modern dish is hotly contested, but the most popular theory is that John was the generic name for a white male customer and roti meant bread, so his order was a roti John. Here, the sandwich itself goes beyond a simple omelette between bread thanks to all the little touches Malaysians love in their street food: the egg mix is enlivened with chopped meat and onions; there are minimal but important herbs and salad; the fluffy but substantial white sub roll is toasted in just enough fat; there are multiple textures of onion; and most importantly the slightly sweet but piquant sauce that makes you finish the sandwich in seconds. It’s billed as a sloppy joe, but that’s underselling it massively. Worth the visit for one dish alone." - David Paw
