
5

"I awarded founder Jason Madden’s new Ashburn restaurant 2.5 stars for food that “would look at home at Washington’s dressier American restaurants — 701 in Penn Quarter comes to mind.” I applaud Madden’s creative spin on vegetables, like pickled and tempura’d cauliflower atop raita with golden raisin and apricot mostarda, and the playful “spaghetti & meatballs” (spaghetti squash with “meatballs” made from mashed lentils and quinoa); his use of texture in interesting ways reflects time spent working under the late Michel Richard. Entree highlights include diver scallops atop beet “risotto” with a celery seed–mustard vinaigrette and the fried chicken leg as part of a Southern-style duo. There’s charm on the desserts list too — a tender, warm apple skillet cake with maple caramel sauce and a ricotta cheesecake that’s lighter and fluffier than expected — though some missteps are easy fixes, namely a white bean ragout with a little too much salt and cocktails that run overly sweet." - Tierney Plumb