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"Ex-Noma sommelier Yukiyasu Kaneko’s wine bar, set in a cozy space beneath a railway arch close to London Fields, may yet become the new template for natural wine bars, a category that has grown a little tired and derivative. Few other businesses can rival Yuki’s assured sense of self and pleasing ambience. An extensive (and fairly priced) list includes highlights from the Jura, Savoie, and Loire regions, as well as bottles from elsewhere in the Old World. Food is secondary but not an afterthought, with snacky dishes such as eggs with tahini, house-made potato crisps dressed with sansho pepper, cured beet tops, silken tofu with mushrooms, and made-to-order beef tartare. Must-try dish: Ask Yuki for his best wines from the Jura or the Savoie." - Adam Coghlan