

6

"A surprisingly accomplished Covent Garden spot with a beautifully designed interior (not a single flat-screen TV) and notably good cocktails; chef Sylvain Roucayrol’s cooking is, on the whole, a joy. The small-plates sharing concept can misfire—diners either order too little or too much—and one ingredient like turbot is judged overrated, but numerous dishes land: jamon croquetas are served exactly as they should be, chipirones are excellent, and desserts impress, from a sensational Ossau-Iraty cheese course to a warm chocolate tart deemed a ‘wet dream’. A rib eye with salsa verde and guindilla mustard is pleasant but unexciting. Despite its name and concept, the restaurant routinely exceeds expectations and is described as an overwhelming hit." - George Reynolds