"This is where it all started, from chef-owner Side Geng. At one time it was the only real Yunnan restaurant in the city, successor to an even smaller place called Yun Nan Flavour Snack on 49th Street, where just a handful of rice noodle dishes were offered. At the newer place, founded in 2014, crossing the bridge noodles are front and center (with black chicken among the ingredients) but two dozen other dry and soupy noodle dishes are available. Some feature crispy pig intestines, pork stew, and sliced beef, plus there’s a roster of snacks and appetizers." - Robert Sietsema