"Even if the name weren’t a giveaway, the glossy-skinned whole birds and pig parts typically on display at this old Federal Boulevard faithful would tell first-timers all they need to know about the kitchen’s expertise in Cantonese roast meats. But stopping there would be a mistake: The long menu’s dotted with delights of all kinds, among them crunchy salt-and-pepper duck chins, water spinach with preserved bean curd and jalapeño, and congee with pork and preserved egg." - Ruth Tobias, Eater Staff