
4
"Housed in a dazzling deconsecrated church with a remarkable fit-out, the food-hall ambition here is undermined by inconsistent and sometimes disappointing cooking. Pork gyoza suffer from waxy, stiff dough and fillings that plop out unpleasantly; gnocchi arrive soggy and waterlogged (even accompanied by a wiry hair); and pide feel stodgy, though there are occasional highs—a pleasingly blackened Neapolitan-style pizza and a properly ripe wild boar ragu. Cramped tiny tables and constant jostling by queuing customers accentuate the worst-of-both-worlds feeling: it neither delivers true street-food discovery nor the comfort of a proper restaurant, and overall the food just isn’t good enough." - George Reynolds