"Hotter-than-a-pizza-oven take: Milwaukee-style pizza is often underdone, with too much flop, too little crisp, and a pale underside weighed down by too many toppings. Just ask James Durawa, a Green Bay native who ran a food truck in Portland, Oregon, where he was also a disciple of Apizza Scholls. For his first permanent restaurant, he decided to bring long-fermented, all-natural pies to Milwaukee. High-end ingredients meet local cheeses at the corner shop in Washington Heights, where a Forno Bravo gas dome oven cooks at 700-ish degrees, yielding a charred undercarriage in four shades of brown, minimal sag, and toothsome crunch. With studious attention to details (like the cheese-to-toppings ratio) and specials (like bacon atop a blend of mozzarella, fontina, and pecorino Romano), a meal here feels like a delicious lesson in what pizza can be. Know before you go: There aren’t many tables, but if you can snag one, enjoying your pizza right out of the oven is a game-changer." - Todd Lazarski