"The trek to suburbia is worth it, thanks to chef Jason Maddens’ potato skins topped with sous-vide chicken, mozzarella, and buttermilk dressing and goat-sausage corn dog and the cocktails. The venue features a handsome, window-wrapped dining room. Highlights include tuna niçoise salad with tomato confit, herbed aïoli, and olive tapenade, seared scallops with grits, chorizo, and pickled fennel stalks. For the main event, the duo of chicken features a perfectly roasted bone-in chicken breast and a crunchy fried leg. The grilled bavette steak is flavorful and nearly upstaged by yuca tossed with aïoli and cotija cheese. Avoid the underseasoned fried oysters and the stale-tasting gluten-free brownie sundae." - Tierney Plumb