
5

"I visited the newly opened Ishin Udon last Tuesday in the Asiatown strip mall Mike Tran has been transforming since Mein Restaurant debuted in 2015; it's his seventh restaurant (alongside Aka Sushi House, Tiger Den, Mein, Ohn Korean Eatery, Night Market Thai and Blkdog Coffee). The 1,500 sq. ft. space is tightly packed and stylishly appointed with built-in wooden booths for parties of six, two and four that can be combined for larger groups; my eyes were immediately drawn to the back wall swathed in bold, fuschia-colored floral wallpaper featuring a large white crane, which Tran says symbolizes happiness (the same motif appears on the menu covers). Rectangular canvases featuring the boldly colored, circa-1960s retro designs of Japanese graphic designer Tadanori Yokoo lend a hip, young feel, complemented by exposed brick at the entrance, while a small opening through the back wall gives glimpses into the working kitchen and noren Japanese canvas signs printed with the Ishin Udon logo hang above the large booths on the right wall. The menu specializes in udon noodle soups, udon pasta, and curry dishes with appetizers such as shrimp tempura and kimchi; Tran recommends those unfamiliar with udon start with the beef udon — the most classical preparation — topped with thin slices of beef and green onion in a clear dashi broth. Highlights on the pasta menu include the crab and truffle udon served in a creamy Italian-style pasta sauce, and there are curry rice plates as well; Tran says he will offer uni carbonara as a special and may add stir-fried yaki udon or yaki soba in the future. Ishin Udon is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Sunday and is currently BYOB while awaiting its beer and wine license." - Mai Pham