
8
"In Times Square I found a modest, barely adorned basement shop at 1500 Broadway (entrance around the corner on 44th next to an Irish pub) with large graphic UK motifs, a blue-uniformed counter crew, and a system that relies on many items being par-fried and finished to order. The heart of the menu is the fish and chips ($17.99): three same-size cod logs in a glistening beer batter that look appealing but are, to my taste, remarkably bland, served with browned, skin-on fries that look good but taste mealy. You are aggressively upsold $3 dirty fries options (Dirty #1, with jalapeños and crumbled chorizo, would be $7.99 on its own and makes a better meal than the plain fish and chips). The shrimp and chips ($16.99) swaps in five plump beer-battered shrimp that are more interesting, while the chicken sandwich ($15.99) is odd and blandly executed — two breast cutlets in pitas with mayo-heavy coleslaw and tomatoes but no pickle, and mayo appears on the cutlets and the side. Each order comes with two condiments, most of which are variations on mayonnaise. For dessert the Biscoff shake ($8.99) — a dense, burnt-caramel–flavored shake made from the Belgian cookie paste — is pretty good (the sticky-toffee shake was unavailable). Overall, the place feels built to parlay Ramsay's media fame into a tourist-friendly, low-effort fast-food model rather than the more ambitious cooking he often champions on television." - Robert Sietsema
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