"When Branca opened nearly two decades ago, this big, brash Jericho Italian restaurant had the feel and energy of something in Manhattan. Thanks to a big recent refurbishment, it’s now got a brilliant delicatessen and extra space in the bar, and the cooking’s grown more confident. Gnocchi and goat’s cheese and smoked haddock risotto are dependable standbys, and the pizzas have always been popular, especially the ‘half and half’ option that allows diners to create their own doughy behemoth." - Alexander Larman
