Grace Dent’s Two Lights Shoreditch Restaurant Review Lacks Drool | Eater London

"A wildly divided experience where hideous dining-room colours, alarming giant photographs and tiny, overpriced cocktails sit beside genuinely extraordinary cooking. Beef with caviar is red, fatty, sticky and utterly perfect; courses such as squid with sandalwood and scallop with caviar and yeast feel molecular, exquisite and even funny — dishes for the ages. The result is some of the best food imaginable served in an almost completely baffling, ill-conceived restaurant, making it hard to reconcile great cuisine with a space that has almost nothing else right." - George Reynolds