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"I saw the SF Chronicle provocatively ask whether Tijuana Restaurant in Fruitvale might be the best old restaurant in America, arguing that reliably excellent, older spots are often overlooked; the piece highlights a mariscada plate—steamed mussels, clams and a quarter crab plated along with pieces of octopus, shrimp, squid and scallops that have been simmered until tender then seared until crisp—as the restaurant’s pièce de résistance." - Luke Tsai