"After more than six years in business, a move to a larger space, the opening of a sister pizzeria, and the release of a cookbook, Moccione is an Italian institution worth repeat visits. Slip into the cozy, contemporary space on a quiet stretch of Saint-Denis for an impeccable plate of pasta, and you’ll quickly see why nabbing a table here can be a feat. (Note: Reservations open on Resy two weeks in advance and fill up fast.) The appetizer selection, with raw offerings like crudo and carpaccio, is always on point — as is the olive oil negroni to start, and a slice of olive oil cake (or ricotta cannoli) to finish. Best for: Italian that’s a sure bet, for when you’re feeling risk-averse." - Valerie Silva