New Mexican Restaurant Mothers Serves Some of Napa’s Best Tacos | Eater SF

"I stood in line at Mothers, the Mexico City–style taqueria Charles Whittaker and Benedict “Ben” Koenig opened in January 2023 in a former Pizza Hut on Jefferson Street in Napa, and was immediately struck by its comal out front, a pineapple-stacked trompo behind the glass window, and the playful David-and-Goliath irony of being across from a Taco Bell. The place has quickly built a mighty fanbase — cornhole-playing Tesla drivers out back and kids at fast-food–style picnic tables up front — and offers make-your-own micheladas, rotating specials (including off-menu pozole on Mexican Independence Day), and avocado oil–fried tortillas to keep things California. The food is righteous: the cabeza taco is mind-meltingly tender and simple, with crisp diced onions that provide the perfect backbone; numerous vegetarian and vegan options — including mushroom and cheese waffle fries and zingy jicama tacos with queso fresco — ensure accessible choices; and the horchata is cinnamon-y and thick rather than watery and chalky. They pride themselves on ample house-made salsas, including macha and arbol, and intentionally avoid bottomless baskets of chips and flour tortillas. The owners’ months of experimentation with masa and fat and their trompo- and pastor-driven approach reflect the Mexico City inspiration, and the Frida Kahlo–esque sign and their emphasis on celebrating the women who are the backbone of taqueria culture give the place clear personality." - Paolo Bicchieri