Tom Sietsema Says Fabio Trabocchi’s Paella Beats José Andrés’ Version | Eater DC

"At R Family Kitchen & Bar, the Tapabar replacement in the Woodmont Triangle, I found a concept aiming to appeal to families with 'sizzle plates'—for example, seared steak with fries served with chimichurri and mojo picon sauces—but for such a brief menu I felt it ought to deliver more exactitude. Chicken wings have agreeable heat, but the Caesar salad was overdressed and pork spring rolls had wrappers that were way too thick; star anise overwhelms a bowl of pho and the salmon was overcooked. Positives include a roast chicken (best with the cauliflower side, buttered and smoky with Spanish paprika) and indulgent hot fudge sundaes decorated with pieces of pound cake, pecan brittle, and dulce de leche. The dining room remains largely unchanged from its former look." - Tierney Plumb