Homareya Review: The Most Exciting New Restaurant in Long Beach Balances Izakaya Tradition and Modern Flair | Eater LA

"Opened in September, this exciting new izakaya in Long Beach from chef Yoya Takahashi (formerly of Kodo and Hamasaku) delivers a seafood-focused menu with a deep sake list, balancing tradition with some wacky, wonderful yoshoku signatures. I order big, focusing on the otsumami specials, and on my last visit the grilled tai snapper with lemon koji was bright and rich with a punch of charcoal smoke, while the persimmon shira-ae with smoked salmon hit a thrilling contrast of sharp, sweet, creamy, and smoky. Nigiri and sashimi are a highlight, with saba bozushi the star: pickled mackerel sushi pressed Kyoto-style into tight rectangles, dense with umami and acid. The Japa-dilla is a bonkers tribute to Takahashi’s youth—a quesadilla on a Sonoratown tortilla filled with beef shigureni, an egg, and a hit of sanshō pepper—for an aromatic, messy Southern California–Kyoto hybrid. Counter seats are the place to be so you can watch the chefs and chat about ingredients and techniques (that fish dangling over the charcoal grill is being smoked for broth). It’s an exciting addition to Long Beach and amply worth the drive from Los Angeles." - Ben Mesirow