"At his Old Town pizzeria, chef-owner Gio Osso (whose mini empire includes high-end Virtu and crudo-driven Piccolo Virtu) adheres strictly to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana’s official rules, using 00 flour and San Marzano tomatoes on his thin-crust pies, which are wood-fired in a 900° oven for 90 seconds. Miraculously, his pizza’s centers are generally not soupy, unlike those found at other AVPN-certified pizza shops on this list. Among nine stellar pies, the Milano — topped with stracchino cheese, smoked pancetta, caramelized onion, and chestnut honey — is a standout." - Nikki Buchanan, Chris Malloy
