The Voltaggio Brothers Introduce Whimsical Tavern Food in a Former Frederick Chapel | Eater DC
"Set in the former chapel of the Visitation Hotel Frederick, a converted convent and Catholic school just blocks from the brothers' childhood home, this sibling-run restaurant marks a homecoming: “This is our first project together since we were teenagers in our hometown,” says Bryan Voltaggio, and he adds, “It’s phenomenal to bring our experiences, our travels, and everything we’ve done over the last 30 years to share with our childhood friends and neighbors.” The menu—described as technically impressive yet inviting—includes a Savory Pumpkin Pie that is “exactly what it sounds like — a homemade pie crust filled with roasted honeynut squash, then topped with whipped ricotta (in place of whipped cream), and pumpkin seed pesto.” Steak tartare is “fresh ground at the start of each service,” served alongside a potato hashbrown and horseradish bavaroise. The brothers dug into customer feedback to shape offerings: “We’ve dug into what people have said when they’ve eaten at our restaurants, and wanted to emphasize dishes that really resonate with our diners while still allowing us to have fun and be surprising,” says Michael Voltaggio. Shareable plates carry their signature twists—Cold Fried Chicken Liver Pate avoids the usual jar or schmear and instead uses newly purchased molds shaped like chicken drumsticks that get filled with chicken liver pate, then breaded and fried; Michael notes, “It’s one of those dishes where you laugh when you say it out loud.” Waffles come from a local sourdough baker and may resemble fried chicken and waffles but are intentionally deceptive. A reimagined take on mid-Atlantic coddies uses whipped brandade molded on a popsicle stick, breaded in a light tempura batter with saltines to keep that classic profile; Bryan Voltaggio explains it’s served with a giardiniera that has “a lot of turmeric and mustard seed to preserve that mustard flavor,” and a tartare sauce made with cauliflower instead of mayo that includes dill, cracked pepper, parsley, capers, and cornichon. The Surryano Ham features Virginian Surryano ham paired with a pimento cheese carefully pressed into a Swiss cheese mold so diners can “take some of that cheese, some of that ham, and make yourself a little ham and cheese sandwich with tavern rolls,” Bryan says. The menu balances playful inventions with comforting, carefully curated proteins—“We have a great hamburger with dry-aged beef, alongside locally sourced cuts of beef, pork, and chicken,” Bryan notes—while a cocktail program spotlights classics and the siblings’ own tequila brand, Marcado 28 (the restaurant is the first of their spots to feature it). Bryan highlights their approach to cocktails: “We’re really leaning into classics and building up from that, so for example, we have five different takes on martinis,” and the Mirepoix cocktail is called out for its uniqueness, featuring carrot-infused Ketel One Vodka, Plymouth Navy Strength Gin, Espelette pepper, celery bitters, vermouth, and a house-pickled red pearl cocktail onion. Michael reflects on growth and community: “We’re grown-ups now, and in some ways, so is Frederick,” and he adds, nostalgically, “It’s just crazy to think that a few decades ago, we were walking up and down these same streets with a skateboard and a beer in our backpack.”" - Lulu Chang
