
4

"Tucked away in Glendale’s strip-mall warrens, I found an unassuming space with a helpful menu full of full-color dish photos where the basics really hold up. The big, knotty khinkali Georgian dumplings rival the meaty exemplars at nearby Khinkali House, while the scene-stealer is a sausage-shaped, sulgani-filled khachapuri grilled on skewers: they arrive as a bronzed, speckled duo rolled thin so their cylindrical crusts become layered and flaky, and when you break them the cheese—soft but not entirely molten—pulls in long, fairy-tale strands. On the Armenian side, the dolmas—grape leaves bundling an oniony mix of ground beef and pork gently bulked with flecks of rice—are particularly compelling; it’s worth seeking this place out even if you have to look hard for it." - Farley Elliott