"A self-described “psychedelic” red-sauce spot (opened late 2021) that pairs classic Italian-American dishes with outlandish, nightlife-style theatrics: beef-cheek rigatoni finished with shaved truffle and a tableside, one-pound stretched mozzarella are served amid lurid pop-art decor under black light while costumed performers swallow razor blades and acrobats do handstands on banquettes. The vibe is gleefully un-snobby and indulgent — more immersive nightclub than uptight trattoria — making for food that’s both comforting and intentionally transgressive." - Cord Jefferson